The initial commissioned piece was quite different with a lot of back and forth, and changes before the design was finalised. Ordered by a client who wanted something unique, yet classic and would fit specific uses.
This wallet comfortable fits 100AUD notes and has plenty of space for cards. I am quite pleased with how this piece turned out as it has a sleek and minimal appearance.
Amy Roke Polyester Thread
Hand-stitched at 9 stitches per inch (3mm) with Dark Sapphire P45 (632 – 0.45mm).
Full-grain leather is the top and strongest layer of the hide, the surface has not been buffed or sanded to conceal imperfections.
Kangaroo leather is known for its strength and durability, and has a beautiful characteristic where it wrinkles. The leather used is undyed vegetable tanned which will develop a patina over time.
Alran Chevre Chagrin Sully
Shrunken goat from the renown French tannery, ALRAN S.A.S.
This goat leather is their top grade and is both chrome tanned and veg tanned in an unique 23 step process that takes over 3 weeks to produce each hide. This gives the leather its’ beautiful grain, soft supple feel and even colour. The grain has a natural texture that adds beautiful depth to the leather, and has excellent water and scratch resistance.
UnitersPro Edge Paint 2000
Several coats of this water-based edge paint is hand-mixed to match the leather, provides a matt full finish protecting the raw edges of the piece.
A mixture of beeswax, paraffin wax and neatsfoot oil is used to burnish the edges of vegetable-tanned leather.
Step 1: Selection
Step 2: Templating
Step 3: Acrylic Finish
Step 4: Cutting
Step 5: Skiving (Thinning)
Step 6: Stamping
Step 11: Stitching
I am using Atelier Amy Roke’s Dark Sapphire 632 thread, stitched at 9 stitches per inch.
Saddle-stitching is a traditional method of stitching that uses two needles and one long run of thread to produce an even slant on both sides of the leather.
This is a unique method of stitching unique to leatherworking, and produces the strongest known stitch that cannot be replicated by machines.
Step 13: Edge Finishing
Firstly, colours are hand-mixed to match the leather. The navy was made using a mixture of black, celeste and blue.
The paint is applied using a roller before being heated then sanded down. This process is repeated several times until a smooth even coat is reached.
Lastly, wax is melted and rubbed on to help give a protective finish to the paint.
Finishing edges creates better protection against moisture and clean smooth edges are a sign of a skilled leather craftsman. This is a particularly tedious process as several layers are needed to get a smooth even finish.